Tuesday 31 January 2012

I'm a Scout

Well, I guess it's official, I've joined the Scouts. My first meeting tonight, a group of about 12 kids, all seem perfectly friendly, laid back and happy with life. Even though it was my first night I'd agreed to run the activity - we built Rocket Cars from Lego, straws and Balloons:

The plan was to see which could cover the length of the hall in the quickest time, but it quickly became apparent that finding which could cover the greatest distance was a challenge. I had a 'here's one I made earlier' with me which was pretty useless, however it seems it's more difficult than you think and my useless car achieved second place (a bit of luck that it went straight - once, coupled with burst balloons and an inability by some to blow up their balloons enough and keep the air in them while putting them on the floor). Actually thinking about it I did change my design - I copied the kids and put the big wheels on the front rather than the back - it makes a huge improvement for a number of reasons!

Anyway a fun evening, back next week for swimming and a mystery activity - I wonder what it is - oh #!?@ I need to know what it is, I'm running it!

Sunday 29 January 2012

The day I stopped Smiling :)

I'm sitting here listening to the radio (something I didn't do in the UK) and the song that's playing is 'I wake up in the morning with a smile on my face'. It reminds me of last Thursday, I was driving to work and realised I didn't have a huge grin on my face. Those of you who I worked with in Devon will recall that I had a Huge Grin pretty much from mid October until I left, that stayed until I arrived on Ascension, and reappeared on the Wednesday Afternoon when I arrived on St Helena. On Thursday I was just driving to work, I wasn't smiling, it was early and I had wanted to sit and relax more at home. It had to happen at some point I guess, but it was strange to realise my face no longer hurt. I think I'm now smiling evenings and weekends only, not that I don't like my job, but it is going to be a long hard slog for the next 2 years, but it should be very fulfilling as well.

The Radio
I've mentioned the radio, there are only 2 stations one on am which I haven't listened to much and one on fm. The fm wakes me up every morning on my radio alarm (at random times because of physics - see below), with Mike reading the news and a great selection of tunes, which I think are mainly requests. I love it, no Robbie Gaga, no Westcat That, no X Got Brother. Good proper tunes (and Country & Western), I particularly like the cover of 'The Wheels on the Bus', and Bob The Builder has been on a couple of times, my type of music :) with the odd commercial song from the latest X Factor Runner Up.

Physics - Yawn
I've always taken electricity for granted - you plug something in and it works, occasionally if the weather is bad there's a power cut, but it comes back. On St Helena Electricity is predominantly provided by 1 engine, ok so it's a big diesel and there are some wind turbines as back-ups, but basically we're talking about 1 engine. If it dies so does the electric everywhere. Equally, there's no Grid, if a line comes down, that's it one side of the island has no power. It takes 15 minutes to get the second engine up and running to take over, none of this multiple redundancy lark. But anyway, physics. In the UK electric is AC at 50 Hz (plus and minus swap over 50 times every second) this is standard and constant. Power Stations all run at 50 Hz and there are other Power Stations which are designed to force the Grid to 50Hz if anything goes awry. Here there is 1 engine, if it gets a slight fuel blockage, or a bit of dust in the air filter it'll slow down. If it gets a bit of cleaner than usual fuel it'll speed up, this changes the RPM (like a car) which is what sets the Hz.


Now for the Alarm Clock. In the UK I set the time correctly and physics makes sure it's right. That physics is the 50Hz business in the power cable. If it isn't 50Hz, say it's 49Hz it looses over a second every minute, or 1m 12s an hour. Overnight (8 hrs) I can loose (or gain) 9.5 minutes just from a 1Hz change in the power. And sometimes it's bigger than that, one night I couldn't be bothered to reset the time as I wanted to get up early anyway, when I woke the clock wasn't 12 minutes fast it was 2 minutes slow (according to my watch). anyway, that's why it's fairly random what time I get woken, luckily there's a battery backup, so if the power dies completely the clock still keeps going, although I'm not sure if the battery would run the radio alarm...

Saturday 28 January 2012

Photos and Old News: The Journey

Well, a fairly lazy day today. Paid my rent at the bank (yes the bank is open on a Saturday Morning!) and went for a drive, but left my camera at home :(

Talking of photo's I've updated my photo site (www.malpas.cwi.sh) with a selection of the best from all the photo's I've taken. 44 out of the 370 I've taken I think is a reasonable ratio - especially when you consider of my 50 turtle photos only 10 show anything and 7 are indistinct or really blurry! Don't worry in another 15 months I'll have my brother out here taking some decent photo's.

Ascension to St Helena, and why I didn't enjoy it.
Those of you that know me have probably, and may still be, wondering why I've moved to the South Atlantic when previously the furthest I've been is Venice and the Orkneys. Some of you will be wondering whether I've cracked and gone mad. Well I nearly did.

I didn't really let on on Ascension, but when I landed it was really strange, I was tired, in a different country and wasn't planning to go home for 11 months. Further, Ascension isn't terribly British, there is a heavy American Influence, and I'm none too fond of that (except their cars of course). To be blunt I was questioning my Sanity. As time wore on and Thursday got towards Sunday I was feeling a little better, but not a whole lot. I was lucky that I met John and Julie who were returning to St Helena where John was Director of Education for the next 4 months, they reassured me a lot and if it wasn't for them I may not have got on the RMS.

When the RMS arrived I was looking forward to the next step on the journey, it was strange thinking that there were still 60 hours until I'd arrive. That morning I was excited about the RMS and didn't really worry about the Job, worrying about security and customs and all the rest. I knew my luggage was ok as I'd dropped that off at about 7:30am, but it was still nerve racking. I also had though that the RMS docked at Ascension, I hadn't realised it anchored off shore and we have to go down narrow, wet, stone steps to get into a little boat before landing on a barge moored to the RMS and then judging the upanddown motion to climb the stairs. This photo is of the other end at St Helena, but it's the same basis - does it look safe to you?

Anyway I made it onto the RMS and met a lot of new people, I hadn't really seen anyone on Ascension, but suddenly there were 55 of us travelling to St Helena. Whilst I got some support from a few others who were returning to St Helena to work like I would, I kept on meeting Saints and they'd say 'Oh what are you doing on St Helena', so I'd say 'I'm the new Roads Manager' and then they'd say a variant on: 'Another One!' or 'You've got a job on your hands' or 'where did they find you?'. There was a unanimous feeling that the roads were shot and the impression given was that nobody lasted long doing roads.

The RMS was great, it was like a luxury Hotel, with entertainment and the best food ever. I think it was 4 meals a day, and Dinner was 5 courses (see www.malpas.cwi.sh/023.html). Unfortunately because of the Job (or was I actually sea sick?) I didn't enjoy the trip too much, despite the free coffee and entertainment.

As you can imagine by Wednesday Morning I was really questioning whether I'd done the right thing, if given the opportunity to return to my safe job in safe Devon I would probably have taken it. It didn't help it was a grey and miserable day, the first I'd seen since leaving England.

By Wednesday lunchtime it had brightened up - as you can see if you look at the photo's www.malpas.cwi.sh/032.html and the next one. My fleece was no longer necessary, but I had it on and it might be cold... I knew I had no choice and thanks to my new friends I made it through immigration, the trip to shore and Customs to see a lady holding a sign with my name on it. It was a relief to know I was expected. She led me outside and I recognised my new boss from the photo's I'd seen of him, what I didn't know was that although he'd never seen a photo of me, he'd also never met Clare from HR, so when I waved, he didn't wave back as he didn't know who I was.

David Thomson, my boss, was great - he was waiting with Delia who manages my house and Martin, the Water Manager, as a friendly face from the office. Clare found my hire car, David took me to the Police to register my licence so I could drive my car, and then he drove my car to the house (more on that another time maybe). But now I'm duplicating what I've already posted, so I'll stop and restart on another post when I get interesting again.

Thursday 26 January 2012

Photos

I've put some photo's online. Rather than messing about working out how to put them on my Blog I've setup a photo website at: www.malpas.cwi.sh

So far it's a little crude, and only got a few Photo's from Ascension, but I'll be adding more soon :)

Monday 23 January 2012

Back Online

Hello again, well after my brief updates from Ascension I journeyed on the RMS and arrived on St Helena on the 11th - there will be more posts about that when I sort my photo's and remember what I've done!

Since the 11th I have been busy, one of 3 reasons for not updating my blog more quickly (although I only got internet at home on the 16th). The second reason is that I was waiting until I had my PC setup with a proper keyboard and screens, finally this happened yesterday. The third reason is that I was too lazy.

So I've been busy - again more posts to follow with Photo's etc - to give a brief rundown of what's happened since the 7th:
8th - lazy day on Ascension, saw more Turtles and hopefully better photos
9th - Joined the RMS and slowly sailed away from Ascension
10th - my only full day on the RMS, by this stage I was getting pretty worried as everyone on the RMS new I was the new Roads Manager for St Helena and most of them were laughing at me.
11th - Arrived and St Helena and WOW. To be a bit more descriptive: WOW, WOW, WOW! It is simply the most incredible (as in not credible) place I've ever seen geographically. The change in climate, scenery, gradient is massive.
11th still - met Clare (HR), met David (my boss), met the people who look after my house, found a hire car, found my house, found my office (in the Castle), was taken for a drive, Dinner at the boss's and finally home. Seemed strange going 'home'.
12th - got to work about 8:15 and straight into emails. 8:30 David whisked me off to meet the Roads Maintenance Manager, Chris, at the depot. Chris is a Saint and a great guy - he really seems to have the knack of fixing roads in the middle of nowhere, but is happy for me to deal with the Strategy, Politics, Policy and Planning - we seem an ideal team. Chris then drops me at the next depot where I meet Steve who runs the rehabilitation project. Another great guy who has had a tough time in his 18 month stint getting things up and running the best he can. David then picks me back up and a quick lunch, before all the boring things in the afternoon like sorting insurance, internet access, arranging to find my container and buying food. Eventually home for a rest.
13th - Friday (I've only just realised that) - again an early start, looking at various things David gave me to read. In the afternoon I meet customs and open my container - no damage, nothing missing phew! Mike from toursim is there to help load a truck to take everything to my house, the Landy (a 2001 Freelander) starts fine, but a wheel brake is siezed. After dragging the wheel the length of the container it unsticks and all is ok. On the way to the house we drop the keys at the garage who'll do the MOT.
After unloading Mike drops me back at customs to pay my duty. Annoyingly the cost of importing all my Cider :) is about what it cost me to buy!
13th Evening - at the boss's house again for a BBQ to meet people, too many names! I decide to walk down (easy) and walk home in case any Police are invited (only the chief of police and 2 or 3 others attended) but walking back, tipsy, in the dark was not a good move. It was very dark and the hill was very steep! Still I got home ok.
14th - Saturday - went into town to do shopping, bumped into a few people I knew, and about 3 times as many people who new me (and I think I'd even been introduced to them)! At least now starvation was off the agenda as there were many more shops and much more choice of food than I had been led to believe. Sat evening I went to the Panto, Alli Baba, where David, my boss, played the female lead?, the chief of police played the evil chief of police and apparently I knew some of the others... Invited to town for a drink afterwards, but too late for me.
15th - Sunday - played 'What's in the box?' Basically I started unpacking.
16th-17th - Work, nothing too interesting to report.
18th - I got my Car! :) passed it's MOT with new number plates.
19th -  Lots of driving in the evening - Sandy Bay, Blue Hill and a whole host of other places.
20th - Friday - wow, that came quickly! Work in the day and in the evening I was invited to a fish fry at the Godfathers Rock Club. As I had no idea where I'm going I offer David and Sarah a lift - more laughing at my face... the club is not what you think. Still the food was excellent for £4 and the entertainment was a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
21st Saturday - Shopping again now I'm more organised and I can buy proper food. have to fill up with diesel as the tank's nearly empty - I'm sure it came out the container with half a tank, and I've only done about 30 miles?... It's amazing, paying for diesel in cash, it feels so expensive - even though it's cheaper than the UK.
22nd - Early start for my 9am Dolphin Watching trip (booked the day before at the tourist office on recommendation of the head of tourism). Definitely more photo's to come on that one - loads of dolphins. Loads. (see www.malpas.cwi.sh/041.html)
23rd - back at work, and today it feels like work, day 1 of a 2-day course in Financial Management.

Well that's a very brief run down of what's happened to me. As I say, more photo's and reports to come. At present I'm just trying to move my life from my netbook to my PC. It's been running since this time yesterday and currently says 23 hours to go. I don't think this cable and wirless network modem is the best...

Bye for now.

Saturday 7 January 2012

Giant Turtles

This is where I show off my Photography Skills!

It seems that of all the weeks I'm on Ascension, this is the week that the turtles lay their eggs, so I've just spent an hour on the beach watching them. I only saw one, although I saw the tracks of 2 coming out the water which looked fresh. The photo shows a vague dark splodge in the middle, this is the turtle. I did get some much closer photos, but they were darker and you couldn't see so much detail...

Glad I went down after dinner, I'd spent Thursday and Friday looking at the 'coracle's' in the restaurant thinking they were rather small, only today did I go to the museum and realised they were Turtle Shells!

Update:

It seems I'm wrong, looking at http://www.heritage.org.ac/HS22.htm Turtles come on shore for many months, so anyone visiting Ascension during the UK Winter/Spring stands a good chance of seeing some.

Also, at breakfast I took a closer look at the shells in the Restaurant, they're made of Plaster! Fooled me though.

7th Jan, Ascension

Writing this online, previous blogs all written offline and posted just now. Today I have internet, so not going out much, although this morning I went to the Museum, an old fort just down the road which happens to open Sat mornings only. Very interesting approach to H&S - basically a sign at the entrance says 'Welcome, you may die here because it's not very safe, don't complain to us', in the UK it would be closed with herras fencing all around and lots of keep out notices. Those of you who know my childish side will appreciate that I enjoyed going around exploring all the tunnels (yes you can get into them) and walking the battlements; just needs a youth club and a first aid kit J. There's a heritage centre as well with a lot of History about everything - people, war, telecommunications, boats, turtles, I strongly recommend a visit to anyone who finds themselves on Ascension on a Saturday morning as it's only £1 to get in!

I'm noticing that something is wrong with my Time on this site, I make it 16:33 on 7th Jan, but Blogspot doesn't, hmmm. Hope it doesn't confuse you too much.

Road Construction
I've been reading some reports about my new job and thinking about road construction. On Ascension there seem to be 2 standards: Road and 'urm roads?!?' Roads seem to be a standard UK type construction in AC10 or similar - Asphalt to the laymen and women - with a decent thickness of construction. The others seem to be about 6mm of MicroAsphalt (very thin Asphalt) on whatever was there anyway, often sand. This doesn't seem a good solution - and knowing there's no Asphalt on St Helena it makes me worry about what I'll find there where it's a wetter climate.

6th Jan, Still on Ascension

I have a hire car today and after an hour to do email (I can’t send, need to sort that, webmail will do for now but it’s the wrong address. Grrrr) I set off around the island. It’s quite small, I head back past the Airport out towards the NASA site, sorry Scout Site, it seems NASA have gone and left the building to the Scouts as a centre, looks like a great facility as it’s miles from anywhere so they can pretty much do as they please I guess. During the day I’ve driven all the main roads, I think, lots of Photos (to be sorted at a later date) and a great day.

One thing I should note, and I’m sure some of my ex-colleagues will be jealous of; I spent a late lunch at the Beach and whilst swimming (in the beautiful warm clear water) cast my mind back wondering ‘what’s the forecast for tonight, will they be sending the gritters out? Has the snow come?’ I was pleased to think that at least my Snow Plan was working, no not the one I left behind at Exeter – MY snow plan: Emigrate before it arrives!

I intended to have an early meal and head off again at dusk for a drive at sunset, but when I go to the restaurant I find there’s a buffet tonight, at dusk, so bang goes that plan. Anyway I take a night trip around the island – 25 minutes (reminds me of the Western Isles) and it’s pretty dark – I don’t think I’d do that again.

5th Jan, Ascension

Well, I arrived. Cold and tired, and beginning to think I’d made a mistake. I was surprised that everyone in the plane was stripping to just their shirt, I was aware it was 32C outside, but it didn’t feel like that until I left the plane, wow, that felt good! The chap I was sitting next to said that all the passengers for the Falklands get off and have to wait in a cage, I hadn’t realised he was serious. Architecture on Ascension seems different from what they tried to teach me at Uni. I was told it was to define what was inside and what was outside, well going into the Arrivals lounge there were doors, walls and a roof, but it wasn’t what I would describe as indoors...

Well, it was organised, a bus was waiting for hotel guests, with enough space for bags in the back. Our rooms were ready and we were let in as soon as we got there. I went for a short walk and took some photos before getting a shower and a nap. I then discovered it was half-day closing for the shop and I should have bought lunch earlier as everywhere was shut. Spent the afternoon wandering around, opened a bank account, paid for my internet when I arrive and sorted the contract on my home for the next 2 years.


Everyone’s Friendly
People keep saying hello as though they know me, I was prepared for them being friendly, but hadn’t expected it to be quite like this. All of my stupid questions get answered with a smile, often with some additional tips as though they know what I’m going to ask before I do. I’m beginning to notice the fact that I haven’t really travelled before as everything is a new experience, and I mean everything, which I wasn’t quite prepared for.

Wednesday January 4th 2012

Well Today’s the Day. After an uneventful Christmas and New Year today is my last day in the UK. Starting to feel incredibly nervous and apprehensive. I arrive at Brize Norton in good time to check in, and a good thing too as it got very busy towards the deadline. Now got a 4 hour wait for the plane. After 2 hours I say goodbye to my Mum, who gave me a lift to the airport and has waited with me, and go through security to the departure lounge. On my own now...

The Flight
I’ve already remarked that I haven’t really flown, going to Venice was my first ever flight and coming back I got a little tipsy (it was my Wedding Anniversary and I was with my wife). I now don’t like flying, In general I would rather drive the Landrover to Scotland than have to do the flight again, the seat was uncomfortable, it was cold and it was too noisy to sleep. The food was ok, although I couldn’t say what it was for the first meal. I did get some sleep, but not much.

Friday 23rd December

Early start for my 500 mile drive to Scotland for Christmas. Left Burnham at 6:45 aiming to arrive within 15 hours. In theory the Landrover will do 60, so find a nice slow lorry and tailgate it until it turns off. Luckily it’s nice and warm so no problems with the poor heater. I rate myself as having a 50% chance of arriving without RAC assistance and a 25% chance of arriving on a lorry.

Update 7:30: Well I left ok, Landrover started, cup of coffee in the cup holder (an old boot). Found a lorry and tried to tailgate but the landy doesn’t like it. The temperature gauge is rising and the auxiliary fan is producing a burning smell, perhaps I’ll slow down.

Update after dawn: I have been turning main beam on and off (flashing) to let lorries know it’s safe to pull back in having gone past. Now I’ve turned my headlights off they’ve stopped saying thank you. An experiment under a bridge shows that’s because the flasher isn’t working. Using the headlight switch doesn’t seem to be being noticed so the headlights go back on.

Update at M42 junction: Well if I keep slow the temp isn’t too high, but it isn’t normal, 40mph limit through roadworks should do it J, but it doesn’t. It seems 40mph is too slow for the airflow to cool the engine!

Update: Well I’ve stopped at Brum because the landy is very warm and I can’t get the temp down. I’ve tried the fan but the burning smell is unpleasant. While stationary I discover that the fan switch is no longer operating the fan, it just creates the burning smell, useful.

Update: Back on the motorway taking it easy in the high 40’s/low 50’s trying to keep out of the way of lorries. Temp gauge stable and coffee refreshed.

Update at about 230 miles: It’s stopped raining, but setting the wipers going after some spray has left them pointing dead upright and not moving. Looks like the RAC will be needed at the next rain burst.

Update at last big junction: It’s a busy 4-lane motorway, I need Lane 3 for the M6 north, I’m doing 48 mph and I’ve a mile to get across. See  gap and go, see a gap and Go. Wow, this isn’t nice, and still over half a mile to go. Foot down, 56mph feels safer, hope I get to the junction before I overheat!

Update at Lancaster: Stopped for lunch and to let the engine cool down, I did make it, just. Wipers won’t budge and I have no tools, luckily still dry. Temperature under control provided I keep speeds down, so saving going fast (55mph) for when it’s needed.

Update in Scotland: It’s starting to rain again, services in 10 miles, if it gets too wet it’ll be the hard shoulder, otherwise stop at the services till it stops raining. 2 miles later I can still see and it’s stopped, the airflow is drying the windscreen and all is fine again. This happens 2 or 3 more times.

Update at Stirling: Stopped for a last break and some fuel, trip distance is 20 miles out on what was expected, but MPG seems to be about 30mpg, which is excellent for an old Landy.

Update after another 10 miles: Well it’s raining, I’m following a coach and the spray pattern combined with the rain means I can still see. I possibly should stop, but this rain looks set to last, whilst I have a coach to follow and can still see I’ll keep going.

Update after Tyndrum: Still going, rain reduced and visibility improved, but the latest fast straight and steep hill has raised the temperature too far, I’ve slowed and lost the coach. At least the main beam on the headlights is excellent, Country Rovers in Taunton did a good thing fitting new ones!

Update on Rannoch Moor: Well all on my lonesome traffic wise, generally I’ve slowed right down to try and manage the temperature and the visibility which seems to be low cloud, seeing headlights behind me I slow to let them past. I stop a few times to manually clear the windscreen and/or let the rain ease. Close enough now that I won’t need the RAC, today at any rate.

Update near the top of Glencoe: Fire! I plugged my auxiliary heater into the cigarette lighter as it’s really rather cold, and the back of the lighter has caught something on fire, I quickly unplug the heater and bash the fire out with my gloved hand.

Update 7:15ish: Arrived. Exhausted. Can’t be bothered to park; I leave the landy in the road and throw the keys at my brother, it’s his problem now. He asks me when the headlight stopped working.

Summary: I made it without any incident for the police to be interested in, although I can’t say the vehicle I’m delivering is in a roadworthy condition anymore and I certainly wouldn’t set out on a journey further than the local garage in it. Things that broke:
                Auxiliary Fan – before I left probably
                Headlight Flasher – before I left probably
                Wipers – after 230 miles
                Nearside Headlight – unknown
                Cigarette lighter – technically still works, but I’d check the wiring – 485 miles
But the brakes, steering, engine, suspension, heater, indicators, gearbox, tyres, clutch, all still work.

Thursday 22nd December 2011

My last Day in the office for Devon County.  A little bit hectic, but it worked out ok and I was able to leave on time having finished things up, or handed them over (sorry if I missed anything). Contrary to many expectations the Landrover (a 1972 Series 3 which had been off the road for 6 years and only back on the road for 3 weeks, breaking down once) started ok and got me as far as Burnham without incident.

Introduction

I assume that everyone reading this knows who I am, for those of you who only know me from one particular point of view, a little bit about myself. I am a Highway Engineer who has recently been appointed as Roads Manager for St Helena, South Atlantic. This is a blog of my experience, which may seem a little strange, but I am not a traveller by nature having only previously flown from Bristol to Venice (and back) and other than that I’ve only been abroad to Ireland. I’m interested in Engineering, being Lazy and Youth Work (being a member of the Boys Brigade in the UK).